Dilnoza Umirzakova: her passion about Uzbek Fashion, Chapans and Hand Embroidery


Today, fashion dictates its own rules to everyone without exception. These are bold bright combinations, monochrome, unusual textures, interesting accessories. Even those who do not pay attention to trends indirectly follow them.

Chairman of the Council of Young Designers, famous designer Dilnoza Umirzokova talked about Uzbek fashion whether there is a demand for eco-fashion in Uzbekistan.

Uzbek Fashion

Now it is very difficult to define the boundaries of such a concept as “Uzbek fashion”. I studied the costumes of the countries of Central Asia. Our main difference is elegance, fine handwork and color patterns.

In general, oriental ikat, cut and tailoring are very unique. Unfortunately, many of our compatriots do not appreciate ikat. It probably happens because we see it everywhere. In the chest of any ordinary family there is definitely an Uzbek adras.

I think that designers should be able to correctly combine khan-atlas with modern world trends and that in a couple of years large factories will appear in our country, where they will produce evening gowns.

If we talk about our fashion, I really like chapans. They have a unique cut that suits everyone. But some critics say they are out of fashion. There is, of course, much to be said here. For example, when other designers make jackets or dresses, we don’t say that it’s boring, that it’s the same thing. Chapan also cannot become obsolete. It doesn’t have a special size either, it’s oversized.

Your Signature

I like Gatsby style clothes, art deco look – pebbles, sparkles, delicate patterns and empire style. Our 20th century and the era of Amir Temur is my inspiration. In my childhood I read many books on this period, so an unusual style appears in fantasies. Sometimes you can see it in my collections.

My idol is the famous designer Karl Lagerfeld and always inspired by his fashion catwalks. But when he was gone, as if the fashion world had stopped, he was seized by some shock. I started looking for a new hero. When I saw the new collection of the Italian fashion designer, creative director of the Valentino brand, Pierpaolo Piccioli, I realized that it was him.

My image is the presence in the designs of some element of the national style: cut, tailoring, pattern, color, fabric. I also pay attention to versatility. I love to dress simply.

However, my line is different from my image. My audience is hi-end and premium class. Sometimes I can not buy something for myself, but I do not regret anything for the collection and clients. This is my signature. I want everything to be perfect.

Step into World Fashion

Now it is very difficult to get into world fashion. You need to create endlessly, have a good lookbook, attarctive Instagram account, cool photos.

I wanted to become a famous designer, but of course I never dreamed of Milan Fashion Week. Fortunately, the president of the Italian National Chamber of Fashion, Mr. Mario Baseli, kindled a fire of desire in me. A few years later I was able to take part in this fashion week. And planned to participate with more designers from my country.

Haute couture with hand embroidery

For three or four years I have been planning to do a big project to preserve hand embroidery. It is very beautiful and unusual. I feel sad when some of us do not appreciate it, while in other countries, on the contrary, they welcome it. Gradually, manual work is lost and after two or three generations it may even disappear. I’m trying to change it, but of course I can’t do it alone.

When in 2017 I was appointed chairman of the Council of Young Designers, the first task was to implement a business project for hand embroidery.
This is an international trend, for example, leading couturiers in France and Arab countries actively use it, and it is made mainly by Indian craftsmen.

Now Uzbekistan is implementing an active program to create jobs, especially in the regions. In this context, if you teach this type of craft to rural women and show them how you can earn money, then you can simultaneously preserve folk traditions and reduce the number of unemployed.

Sustainable fashion

Now the concept of “eco” has become relevant, but it is not developed in our country. When we were in India, we saw many similar projects. At Uzbekistan Fashion Week we want to announce a competition in the ecological direction – a collection of eco-fabrics.
Some influencers and celebrities are trying to pay attention to faux fur. But our people love chic more, so they often choose natural furs. But even the British queen refused to buy clothes made of natural fur. Designers should offer eco-collections, then there will be progress.

Uzbek designers

There is strong competition among designers in Uzbekistan. The collections of Lali Fazylova (LALI fashion house), Dildora Kasymova, Zulfiya Sultanova, Nilufar Abduvalieva (Mursak fashion house) never cease to please not only ours, but also foreign fashionistas, and from new designers – Elmira Batyrova.

Each creator adds zest to his collections using the national style. First of all, it is beautiful and unique. Secondly, it’s an excellent business concept. Designers, who observe world trends, create unusual bows, combining modernity and Uzbek ikat.

The main thing is to move forward

Once in my life there was a turning point when I wanted to refuse to work in this field. Then I remember: there was no money, small children, lived in a small apartment. However, my passion empowered me to move on.

Blitz Poll

– The quality you value above all else


  • What is your main weakness?

I’m often late

  • Happiness is


  • What do you regret the most?

Didn’t study design

– Your favorite place in Uzbekistan

Chor-su Bazaar

  • If you caught a goldfish, what three wishes would you make?

The annual show in Paris, a large showroom and the happiness of my family

– The best book for development

The ZARA Phenomenon (Covadonga O’Shea)

  • Your favorite phrase

You never know what you can do till you try

Rajni Sharma

Rajni Sharma has over 5 years’ experience as a professional technical writer and technical author. His blogs publication audiences include system programmers, administrators, operators, and users.

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